We were ambling around Rome, sighing as we sunk into the throngs of tourists that clutter and clog the cobbles of the city. I was looking for something Italian but quietly so, a spot where there weren’t bus tours or fanny packs or couples with faces buried in maps. I don’t know Rome very well so we wandered for a while until spontaneously slipping into this charming courtyard – crumbling and cracked but hosting the most curiously dramatic fountain, it didn’t appear to work but it was beautiful all the same. And silent in the way a city with so many ghosts should feel – I like to think all of Rome’s history should be enjoyed rather silently. And the best spots aren’t discovered via a sightseeing checklist but unintentionally – and the most beautiful things are attractive in just that way too, unthinkingly.